Gantry Assembly

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RigidBot Kit Assembly Instructions
0. Before You Begin Assembling 4. Gantry Assembly 8. Bottom/Middle/Gantry Assembly
1. Sub Assembly 1 5. Top Frame Assembly 9. Heated Bed Assembly
2. Sub Assembly 2 6. Bottom Frame Assembly 10. Completing Frame Assembly
3. Extruder Assembly 7. Middle Frame Assembly 11. Wiring/Cable Management

Instruction Video

Instructions from the Manual

Gantry assembly as depicted in official manual

Follow the steps in order.

  • NOTE If a part number has (x2) or (x6) it is referring to how many of that same part will be used throughout that step. If a step number has a (x4) or (x6) this means that the step is to be repeated four or six times throughout the assembly.
  • Steps 4, 5, and 6 are repeated on the other side in Step 7.
  • Also Step 12 is repeated on the other side in Step 13.
  • There are four screws that are used on Sub D and Sub B totaling 8 screws with two on top and two on the bottom.
  • Sub H and Sub F must be placed on the rods before parts 1007 and before Sub E are placed on the sides.

Parts List

Notes from Users

Alternate Configuration

In several images from the Kickstarter campaign the extruder is depicted reversed, as in the image to the right. It is unclear why the official manual changed this orientation.

Step 1

The 2022 longest rods were hidden inside the 2010 and 2011 square frame tubes. I used the wrong ones the first time, and had to replace them with the longer ones. --Dennis Brown
Despite Dennis Brown's admonition, I also used the wrong ones. The 2022 rods (from the Big kit) are 23 1/8" long and were both inside a 2010 frame tube. --Greg Rebholz

Step 5 & 6

Should not be done at this stage. The video shows them being installed at a later stage. I followed the video, so I did not install them here. --Dennis Brown

Step 11

One of the tapped holes in the square bar came stripped form the factory. --Dennis Brown

Step 9 & 11 and general note

This issue applies to all the attachment of motor and idler subassemblies to the square frame tubes. The tubes are larger than the plastic pieces that go around them. This creates a challenge for attaching them.
Square tubes larger than plastic brackets
. It is easy enough to add the two screws to one side, but the screw holes do not line up on the opposite side. What I had to do was clamp the plastic to the tube first. This stretched the plastic enough for the holes to line up and get the screws installed. I just used some pliers and a cloth to keep from marring the powder coating on the tube with one hand while screwing in with the other hand. Once one screw is in, the other may be close enough to not need the clamp. Some other type of C clamp might be used, but I was just using my office tools, rather than my shop tools to assemble everything. I figured not everyone has a shop full of tools. --Dennis Brown
Due to the tight fit of the plasic brackets to the square bar and the resulting effort that may be required to line-up the screw holes - drilling the bracket holes to a slightly larger diameter or elongating the holes with a round file will avoid stripping threads on assembly. --Mark Swales
Consider: these steps have you bolt Sub-Assemblies B and D (the X axis motor and idler) onto Sub-Assemblies E (the metal parts #1020 and it's linear bearings)... DON'T !! Later on you will need access to the linear bearings that get covered by B & D. -- Juan J. Peña

Step 14 & 15

Maybe with the old heater block this worked better, but with the new one there is almost no clearance of the thermister against the front linear bearing (1005) when trying to wedge the entire assembly in there. I would remove the 1005 from the head plate when installing extruder to plate. Saves frustration and possible damage to thermister when trying to wedge it in there otherwise. - T.O'Connell