Before You Begin Assembling

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RigidBot Kit Assembly Instructions
0. Before You Begin Assembling 4. Gantry Assembly 8. Bottom/Middle/Gantry Assembly
1. Sub Assembly 1 5. Top Frame Assembly 9. Heated Bed Assembly
2. Sub Assembly 2 6. Bottom Frame Assembly 10. Completing Frame Assembly
3. Extruder Assembly 7. Middle Frame Assembly 11. Wiring/Cable Management

General notes about the kit

  • All parts are listed individually, but it looks like a couple of the bags they come in are also listed. Those in question:
    • 1038 contains 1036 and 1037
    • 1050 contains 1051, 1061­-64, and 1068
  • Also, it looks like there is only one of the 1020 support bar, but there are two smaller bars in there.
  • The #zrod parts are 1075­-77. [Z­-Rod upgrade (only?)]
    • At first I thought they were missing, but (for me at least), 1076 and 1077 are already attached to the Z motor (1684AL). It's a little confusing, because the picture of the motor shows the rod already attached.
    • If you have the upgrade, it doesn't look like you need 1075 (Z-Couplers).​
  • Notes on the location of parts as packed in the box
  • There should be eight smooth rods of three lengths in your kit
    • For the 10x10 (regular), there are two 17 1/8" (435mm) X rods, two 16 5/8" (423mm) Y rods, and four 13 1/4" (338mm) Z rods. (Sizes are approximate, and up to 1/4" shorter shouldn't be a problem.)

User Reported Problems

The following are issues that have been reported by members of the RigidBot Google+ community. We do not know how common or isolated these issues are, but they are recorded here to help you look out for them.

Multiple Reports

  • Leaking extruder.
    Breach of melt chamber
    Severe breach of less critical mounting hole
    In the original hot end, the hole that had been drilled and tapped for the thermistor was mis-placed, breaching the path that the filament follows, allowing melted plastic to leak from behind the thermistor. Invent-A-Part has had the hot ends re-machined, and is including the new hot ends in all new RigidBots, and offering to send backers a replacement for only the cost of shipping. Community proposed solutions for the old hot end include sealing the hole opposite the installed thermistor with heat resistant silicone, JB weld epoxy, or an M3 screw to stop the immediate leak. The plastic is escaping the melt chamber because the PTFE tube is not tight enough. To fix this either sand down the PEEK insulation block, or shim the cold end of the PTFE tube to make a tighter fit. It's also suggested that you tighten the brass nozzle after the rest of the hot end is assembled, to help seat the edge of the nozzle against the PTFE tube. Some have observed that the counterbore of the hot end is not deep enough for the PTFE tube to touch the top of the nozzle, which cannot be easily solved with household tools. [Reported by Katherine Campbell also with photos] [Reported by John Tran] [Reported by B Malott] [Reported by Jerry Fountain] [Reported by John S] ... and many others.
  • Board rework issues.
    Current best guess on a properly reworked board
    The original main boards constructed in China were found to have cheap substitutes of the power switch and stepper driver trim potentiometers compared to the Invent-A-Part approved Bill of Materials. The factory had to rework all the boards to get the proper components installed, and in that process they ran an additional set of wires from an output pin of the microcontroller to each of the stepper drivers' reset pins. This was to correct an infrequent problem where the drivers required a reset pulse after power on. This rework may be of questionable quality, as several users have reported various problems. The image on the right depicts what the community believes is the proper location for these rework wires. Be aware that soldering on your main board, even to correct an apparently incorrect rework, may affect your ability to get a replacement from Invent-A-Part. If your board does not match the one depicted here you are advised to open a support ticket. [Mis-wiring reported by Dennis Brown] [Trim potentiometer completely fell off reported by Arland Woodham and Dan J]
  • Tight bearings.
    Tight bearings
    The 10mm fastener (1049) doesn't always make the proper snug slip fit with the bearing (1039). The community recommendation is to use scotch bright non-woven pads (e.g. green 3M pads), steel wool, or if you want something a bit more aggressive, consider something like 1000+ grit silicon carbide sandpaper and slowly work on the bolt to remove any burrs, focusing in particular on the chamfer (bevel) between the threaded area and the smooth machined surface. Remove all traces of sanding debris and coat the surfaces with a light coat of machine oil. [Reported by Stephen J. Bush] [Reported by Braden Steel] [Reported by Dennis Brown]
  • Ribbon cable failure.
    Failed ribbon cable
    Poorly assembled ribbon cable
    Because the ribbon cables do not include an anchor clip, pulling on the ribbon flat can separate the connector housing. Once inserted into the main board within the enclosure, there is no way to remove the cable without pulling on the cable flat. Be very careful removing these cables. If the connector separates it should be possible to reassemble it, but you may want to choose a new location on the cable rather than reusing the existing piercings. See also: Replace Ribbon Cables for a shopping list of parts to make your own replacement cables. [Reported by Dennis Brown] [Reported by Michael DiFilippo] [Reported by Dan J] [by Katherine Campbell] [Reported by mrlamborginiguy]
  • Surface rust. Several users have mentioned seeing rust inside steel supports. The general consensus is this may be caused by cutting fluids during manufacture or incomplete powder coating on the inside of the square tubing, and should not pose any risk to function or longevity. [Reported by Corey Cougle] [Reported by Braden Steel] [Reported by Richard Goodwin]
  • Missing 1 or 2 #1032 screws. Not a structural concern, but seemingly common.
  • Bulging plastic side panels.
    Bulging plastic side panels
    The cosmetic plastic side panels create a bulge in the center when screwed in at all points. Some users have suggested "egging out" the screw holes in the appropriate direction to allow the panel to lie flat. This can be seen on some assembly videos and appears to be a very common problem. [Reported by Alexander H]
  • Y Axis Smooth Rods Too Long Several with the regular RigidBot have reported having four X-Axis length (17 1/8" 434.97mm) rods, instead of two X-Axis length and two Y-Axis length (16 3/4" 425.45mm). Cutting the rods down to the appropriate size with a Dremel and a cutoff wheel has worked. The cut is not critical, and may be done by eye due to the rod holders used on the RigidBot.

Isolated Reports

  • Main board has incorrect firmware for the size of the machine, resulting in incorrect boundaries being enforced. This can be seen by homing the machine, moving to the extreme other end of motion using the jog function of the LCD or Pronterface, and issuing the M114 command to return the current X, Y position. Be aware that a Big main board on a Regular machine will allow the jog function to crash the axes, so proceed with care near the end of the motion. The RigidBot Regular should stop at exactly (254, 254), the RigidBot Big should stop at (300, 400) but any position beyond (254, 254) demonstrates it is Big firmware. It can be corrected by uncommenting or commenting-out the "#define RIGIDBOT_BIG" declaration in the firmware source code, recompiling, and reflashing, or you can open a ticket with Invent-a-Part to send you precompiled firmware to flash. [Reported by Katherine Campbell]